Dia de los perros

Oaxaca, Mexico

I AM WATCHING Day of the Dead festivities in Oaxaca, Mexico. The holiday is in full swing, welcoming the souls of the dead back to the land of the living for one night a year, to celebrate, to commemorate, to honor and remember those who are gone from our sight.

The first night, the souls of dead pets are believed to come back to walk among us. On subsequent nights, those who died a violent death, the forgotten, drowning victims, children, the unborn or the unbaptized, and finally, adults all return to celebrate with their families. It seems comforting to believe death is not final, that you can spend time with your loved ones once again.

Dogs are valued in Mexican culture for friendship, companionship and protection. Spirit dogs are believed to guide the dead to their final resting place in the afterlife. I see a lot of wood, plastic or paper mache skeleton dogs as part of the Day of the Dead holiday decorations, perched on laps or benches, a treasured part of Mexican death and Mexican life.

The people I meet all have dogs and they love to talk about them. When I am asked if I have a dog, I happily show photos of my three dachshunds, the dogs I love unconditionally. I talk baby talk to my dogs, worry about their health and well being, try to make sure each one gets enough attention. I play games with them, give them mental stimulation. I want to enrich their little lives. I pet them, kiss them, sleep with them. They drink filtered water, listen to soft music at bedtime. I treat them like the children I never had.

The dogs I see on the streets of Oaxaca look healthy, their coats glossy. They are not skinny, mangy strays. They are friendly, seeking attention from people. Most male dogs are obviously neutered and there are veterinary clinics everywhere. I am actually a bit surprised. Dogs in Third World countries are not usually treated very well and free-roaming strays are considered pests or dirty curs. Dog ownership is usually limited to working dogs who herd livestock or guard property. A pet dog kept for companionship is a luxury.

You can tell a lot about a society by the way they treat their animals.